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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:40 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi guys,

I've been having this problem for ages and before you all sigh - I do apologise, but, my hood still doesn't work.

I have replaced the looms on both sides of the boot hinges and still no joy, so, I bought a fault reader cable and have plugged the car into the laptop. I'm getting an error and as much searching of the internet, I'm not coming up with much. The error is:

1 Fault Found
00271 - See Repair Group 01
35-10 - - - Intermittent.

I assume the subcode (35-10) is the problem with 00271. But.. what is 00271 and Repair Group 01? If anybody knows then I would be really grateful Wink

Problem I have, to describe symptoms:

1. Most of time cannot unlock hood using T-Bar at windscreen (even though handbrake on and light on dash) so have to use key under sun visor. Sometimes works though.

2. Then... most of the time the hood will not work automatically so have to do completely manually. Except once or twice, it has tried but then stops somewhere in the process - very sporadic.

The fluid levels in the pump are absolutely fine and there are no signs of leakage... but... I have been looking at various others bits and bobs after noticing that my boot doesn't unlock with the central locking.

I took out the solenoid that is supposed to lock the boot when the hood is activated, yet left the cables connected to see what happens when you lift the levers under the hood cover manually.

I assume when activated, the solenoid should be told to either 'push out' or 'pull in' yet when mine is activated, when it 'pulls in' it pushes back out pretty much straight away ?? Does this sound normal?

Sorry for the long post... but... I am SO determined to fix my hood - looks like it's slowly becoming my whole life ambition!!

Cheers guys,
Aidan
 
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cactusgreen
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Joined: Aug 09, 2006
Posts: 539
Location: Buckinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 12:58 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Sorry for the poor format - no access to a picture host at work but I have seen this fault code on mine once - cleared it and it's not returned (did not have any issues with the hood, was just looking). Suggests it's a problem with the 'status' of the locks which you had already mentioned as a problem. Have a read of http://www.audifans.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=16399 The info I had went along the lines of:


Output on printer of V.A.G 1551
Possible cause of trouble
Possible effects
Fault remedy

0027

Refer to Repair Group 01

- Incorrect operation
- Impermissible switch position on pressing convertible top actuator button
▪ No movement of convertible top
- Interrogate fault memory
Move convertible top to end position by hand
Erase fault memory
Switch ignition off and on again, press convertible top actuator button
If possible, fully open and close convertible top
Interrogate fault memory again
If no fault has been entered despite malfunctioning, check operation => Page 01-229
Checking operation of electrohydraulic convertible top actuator
Checking operation of electrohydraulic convertible top actuator
Notes:

◆ If there is no automatic movement of convertible top, pull out fuse S24 and hydraulic pump relay for convertible top operation -J321. Then have second mechanic move convertible top. It is however only possible to check the input signals in this manner.
◆ The specifications given are only attained during movement of the convertible top. If movement is interrupted by releasing the convertible top actuator button, "0" is displayed for -E137 and convertible top operation hydraulic pump -V118.
◆ When testing output signals, specifications can only be checked during movement of the convertible top. Interrupting movement of convertible top actuates additional solenoid valves for holding function.
◆ If a control element is not connected or in the event of an open circuit in the wiring, "1" is always displayed for the control element concerned.
◆ Switches not covered by the control unit are marked with an "X" in the specification display.
◆ Input signals:
0 = Switch open (vehicle electrical system potential or open circuit in wiring)
1 = Switch closed (earth potential)
◆ Output signals:
0 = Output stage off (earth potential or open circuit in wiring)
1 = Output stage on (vehicle electrical system potential)
Test sequence

‒ Connect up battery charger or leave engine running to ensure constant and adequate vehicle electrical system voltage during entire test sequence.
‒ In the event of a complaint start checking operation one test step prior to problem with movement sequence.
‒ Start by checking all input signals.
‒ Start electrohydraulic convertible top actuator self-diagnosis => Page 01-164.


→ Indicated on display: Rapid data transfer HELP
Select function XX

‒ Enter "08" for "Reading measured value block" function and confirm with Q key.


→ Indicated on display: Reading measured value block Q
Enter display group number XXX

‒ Enter "001" for "Display group number 001" and confirm with Q key.


→ Indicated on display:
(1...4 = display zones) Reading measured value block 1 ⇒
1 2 3 4

‒ Perform test steps.
8 valve pump:

‒ Checking opening of electrohydraulic convertible top=>Page 01-232
‒ Checking closing of electrohydraulic convertible top=>Page 01-263
6 valve pump:

‒ Checking opening of electrohydraulic convertible top=>Page 01-290
‒ Checking closing of electrohydraulic convertible top=>Page 01-320

_________________
AOC 1333
Just lost Sad UK \'01.5 B5 2.4SE Tip, Votex body kit, Hidden Microwave PDC, Pirelli x-pressure TPMS,Hardwired Bel Euro RX65e, Lamp Guards...and the exclusive Red Logo Audi Sport Valve Stem Caps! A 94 80 Cab 2.6e auto and now 2010 S4 Smile 
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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:12 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks for the really quick response!! Audifans is great for that!!

I really appreciate that - I shall get checking that when I get a mate over, see if I can check the readouts.

I was just checking on Erwin to see if I could find any workshop manuals but the electrics version all seemed to be in german!!

Just while I'm here, just want a second opinion really - I had the car in the garage for about 4 weeks last year for them to check out the issues with the hood but I kept getting fobbed off. They told me that they think it was a problem with the pump - apparently, they thought it was 'sucking' but not 'blowing', would cost me nearly £3k for parts and labour to fix. But as the pump works occasionally I can't believe this - do you think this is down to electrics somewhere (more likely) ?

Cheers cactusgreen,
Aidan
 
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cactusgreen
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Joined: Aug 09, 2006
Posts: 539
Location: Buckinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:34 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I'd say so - could be the control unit itself, but the codes would indicate it thinks the boot is not closed properly Question or it's faulty wires in another area other than the boot looms. I have a fault with the central window switch only dropping the windows - when you try to lift them the relay clicks but does nothing to the windows - fault codes get recorded that again point to the control unit or wires some place....just can't find where Sad

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AOC 1333
Just lost Sad UK \'01.5 B5 2.4SE Tip, Votex body kit, Hidden Microwave PDC, Pirelli x-pressure TPMS,Hardwired Bel Euro RX65e, Lamp Guards...and the exclusive Red Logo Audi Sport Valve Stem Caps! A 94 80 Cab 2.6e auto and now 2010 S4 Smile 
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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:43 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Cheers for that - always good to have a second opinion!! Me finks we have similar cars: mine's a '94 (95 model) 2.6E auto. I love the car to bits, I think the best car (if the oldest) I've owned!!

Wouldn't it be great if there were some simple ways to fix the problems (or rather, find them!!).

I fully appreciate the frustration of your switch - it's not that it causes a massive problem it's more the fact that you know it doesn't work - bugs you to hell doesn't it!! I did read somewhere that we cab owners should expect that not all electrical systems will work at any one time - reassuring isn't it Wink

Cheers,A
 
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cactusgreen
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Joined: Aug 09, 2006
Posts: 539
Location: Buckinghamshire

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:41 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Same car for sure - and the niggles Rolling Eyes When I first spotted a dash light out I thought OK, cars getting on but hey.... next thing I know the dash was out, bulbs changed including the auto indicator that needed to have some bulbs soldered in....then spotted only half the mirror control was lit so out it came...and the soldering iron... and boy did it take an age to get the arm back on the door Very Happy

Currently working on the alloys - I still like the original 15" 10 spoke speedlines and they make great 'project' wheels for a DIY refurb. 2 done 2 to go.... must get on to the ATF leak from the gasket though, as the spots on the drive are stating to merge....

What's breaking like in yours?? I swapped out the front discs as they had the solid ones fitted for some reason, but still feel like it's not as good as it should be...parents have an 80 saloon that stops on six pence not unlike my A4, the cab is a more relaxed thing that catches me out at times...

_________________
AOC 1333
Just lost Sad UK \'01.5 B5 2.4SE Tip, Votex body kit, Hidden Microwave PDC, Pirelli x-pressure TPMS,Hardwired Bel Euro RX65e, Lamp Guards...and the exclusive Red Logo Audi Sport Valve Stem Caps! A 94 80 Cab 2.6e auto and now 2010 S4 Smile 
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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I haven't even begun to think about replacing bulbs in the dash yet Wink Do you think our cars were identical twins as I can relate to your issues Wink

Yeah the braking is pants!! I actually had the pads & discs etc on the front replaced just last week, so it kinda stops now but the main thing is that it doesn't wobble and squeak any more!!

I know what you mean tho, my better half has a Smart car which in comparison, stops dead. Me thinks it's just that Cabs have generally bad brakes.

Gonna head back outside in a mo and check through the cabling in the boot again.... may be gone sometime Cool
 
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jas11n
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Joined: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 14191
Location: Durham, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 1:31 am Reply with quote Back to top

Don't forget guys, the cabby is a heavy car.
Wayyyy heavier than a Smart car thats for sure.
Auto transmission is one mother of a thing too.

Jas..
Cool

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2001 Avus Silver RS4.
2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport LE..

1995 S2 Coupe - sold
1995 A6 Avant TDi - sold
1993 80 TDi - sold
1990 90 2.3 auto - scrapped
1989 Coupe 2.3e - sold
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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2007 8:14 am Reply with quote Back to top

Absolutely!! One very heavy car!

Well... there's been some developments. I plugged the VAG-COM in to check the microswitches on the hood against the block code read out for each sequence of opening and closing the hood (as per workshop manual) and I think I have a drunk micro switch.

Everything seems fine until you lift the hood switch to engage the auto roof, then the 'switch for convertible top stowed' (F171) gives a reading of '1' instead of '0' when the hood is up. Then I manually put the hood down and try in reverse - then... I get a reading of '0' instead of '1' from the same switch when trying to put the hood up. This switch appears to be working the wrong way round. ie When I try to auto lower the roof, it already thinks it is down and stowed and then when try to put it up, already thinks it is up.

The switch F171 appears to be in the right main cylinder which looks to be a pain to get to. Has anybody had this problem who may be able to shed some light? I have had a quick look at the cabling to and from this switch at pin number 4 on the connector in the boot but I seem to be getting a current yet I still get a generic fault code through VAG-COM:

1 Fault Found
00271 - See Repair Group 01
35-10 - - - Intermittent.

One thing though and don't know if this is an issue, but, the microswitch wires going into this connector seem to be rather sticky but no apparent reason - any ideas? Would this cause any problems?

I've checked pretty much all of the rest of the switches and all seems to be okay, ie, hand brake on, boot closed etc.. so pretty confident that it's not the looms in the boot as these have now been replaced.

I'm beginning to get my faith back and think that I may be quite close!!

Weather's looking good for the weekend again but I think I need some sun tan lotion as I got really burnt last weekend from pootling around Wink
 
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cactusgreen
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Joined: Aug 09, 2006
Posts: 539
Location: Buckinghamshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:02 am Reply with quote Back to top

Take it that clearing the fault code and trying again just puts the code back in again - as I had the same one, and once cleared and I'd shut the car down etc. all was OK and no new code got created...may have just been lucky Smile

_________________
AOC 1333
Just lost Sad UK \'01.5 B5 2.4SE Tip, Votex body kit, Hidden Microwave PDC, Pirelli x-pressure TPMS,Hardwired Bel Euro RX65e, Lamp Guards...and the exclusive Red Logo Audi Sport Valve Stem Caps! A 94 80 Cab 2.6e auto and now 2010 S4 Smile 
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aidan26
Inexperienced



Joined: May 04, 2006
Posts: 41
Location: Stamford

PostPosted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:26 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Howdy,

Yeah you're right. Just keep on getting 00271 everytime I try to open the hood. Keep clearing it but keeps coming back. Shouldn't I be getting a fault code from the actual microswitch tho' instead of this generic code?

Cheers,
Aidan
 
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