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Are these that arms that snap ?? or are they internal
Reckon thats a LHD unit as mine has the fan motor visible on the side with these white bits , mine seems to stuck in one postion , which is the same in this picture
After testing mine found that picture is incorrect and the postion shown is cold , not hot
_________________ Silver A6 TDI 140bhp SE Avant , S6 8*17" wheels, S4 Black interior , Audi 100 Audi sport steering wheel ,cruise fitted by bladerunner , Dual HID`55w/35w , 385k miles and still trucking
Last edited by duff_audi on Sun Oct 12, 2008 10:05 pm; edited 2 times in total
spink Bandwidth Buster
Joined: Aug 12, 2006
Posts: 682
Posted:
Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:07 pm
think it was the L shaped one(top left part) that i snapped
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:52 pm
You need to look at the other side just above where the inlet / outlet for the heater matrix is. In there you'll see a cover held on by 5 screws possibly torx head. removing will require a bit either torx or Philips not sure which it is and a flat bit ratchet or similar tool..
When cover is removed you'll see this, pic 2 is how you will view it from under the bonnet.. (motor removed)
Here is what you need to do once the motor is unbolted, rotate it in a clockwise direction about 270° without twisting or pulling away from heater box too much until the slot lines up with the peg in the arm
The above assumes your motor is stuck on full hot, if you can get it to go to full cold then you'll have to rotate is much less and it's far easier to get out without snapping anything..
Here you can see what the arm looks like when it's in full cold position.
Note that because it is an automatic climate control simply setting it to full hot or cold won't always guarantee it being at one end or the other, if you motor still works intermittently set it to manual wth A/C off and temperature to Low. If it moves it will look like this image when you remove..
Once the motor is removed you can position the flap where you want. Don't try to force it if you still have motor connected because it is a geared worm drive and wont be reverse driven
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I Have Genuine Vag Com Hex Can 2+2, Vag Tacho & Snap-on Modis latest software
Last edited by BladeRunner on Mon Sep 07, 2009 5:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
duff_audi Needs to get out more
Joined: Dec 02, 2007
Posts: 114
Posted:
Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:00 pm
Cool pics that clears it up .
Now do i need to remove the housing from the car to work on this and disconnect the coolant lines , or can i undo the big clamp and the plugs and go from there ?
Cheers
_________________ Silver A6 TDI 140bhp SE Avant , S6 8*17" wheels, S4 Black interior , Audi 100 Audi sport steering wheel ,cruise fitted by bladerunner , Dual HID`55w/35w , 385k miles and still trucking
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Sun Oct 05, 2008 9:27 pm
Well it looks as if it's it's going to be fiddly and you'll need the right tooling... I can't say with authority if can be done in situ, but I'd be giving it a go before considering taking the heater out. It's got to be worth an hour or so of faffing annoyance, compared to the 3 hours or more having it all out, unless you want to service the heater / replace the matrix etc etc etc.
Also when you mend your motor it's prudent to clean the pot with some electrical contact cleaner as well as you can..
BTW if you ever have the heater box out, always put a new matrix in and clean / lubricate all the flaps and levers and check service repair all the control motors.
Nikon Coolpix 995, cost me over £700 in 1996, cheap as chips on ebay now, and although only 3.34mp it has a far better lens than most digital cameras so is superb for macro work, the swiviling body is so useful too...
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I Have Genuine Vag Com Hex Can 2+2, Vag Tacho & Snap-on Modis latest software
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Mon Oct 06, 2008 12:24 am
Looking at Etka this is what the motors are described as..
Actuator motor for fresh air flap V70 Blue (443 820 511)
Control motor for temperature regulation V85 Red (443 820 511B)
Control motor for temperature regulating flap V68 (443 820 511A)
Again i can only guess at this, but it looks as if V68 is a basic air through the heater matrix or bypass the matrix control used in non auto mode when you set to low or high and maybe all stages in between.
V85 is used to control the temp in auto mode together with 4D0 820 521A (blower control) and V71 (fresh air / recycle) in the A/C unit which use either heater or A/C to keep interior at user set temp (there's also some sensors in the dash & the interior light..
V70 is basically the vent distribution.
For those that are still with me, and haven't lost the will to keep living yet, it would appear both V68 & V85 could give similar faults, so it might be worth pulling vag com codes to see if either is faulting. My guess is if you turn off the auto setting on the climate, and stay away from the A/C or demist or recycle controls, (because it frustratingly goes back into auto mode if you touch them), you will be in manual. If in manual you are not getting warmth when set to high and cold when set to low, it's most likely V68 that's at fault assuming other parameters are all normal, (your heater matrix is ok / car is warmed up etc).
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duff_audi Needs to get out more
Joined: Dec 02, 2007
Posts: 114
Posted:
Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:45 am
Interesting , i have been checking mine on VAG com for the last week or so and V68 problem is the one i get
- used to be a intermittant error type, and the the heating would sometimes work
- but its now changed to a fixed error type , and never works
Last night i sat in the car with vagcom and engine on ( and hot) and off and cleared faults ran the climate thro all the modes possible and could hear sometimes a motor noise that sounds like it was trying to move , would pulse about 3 times and then stop
So hopefully that clears up which one is at fault on mine but if so is it possible o tell which colour plugs related to which sensor number ?
That would then identify easily which one to fix , if the info is not avaible i may have a go at pulling one plug off at a time and note the fault code sensor number in vag com, that should help others pinpoint the problems they have
Or is V68 black and the others as you have described red /blue
_________________ Silver A6 TDI 140bhp SE Avant , S6 8*17" wheels, S4 Black interior , Audi 100 Audi sport steering wheel ,cruise fitted by bladerunner , Dual HID`55w/35w , 385k miles and still trucking
duff_audi Needs to get out more
Joined: Dec 02, 2007
Posts: 114
Posted:
Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:53 am
On the issue of can it be done with the leaving the unit in, i am guessing it may be able to because the price at the dealer is was about £114 to fit at their rate i would expect it to be a lot more for matrix out and new coolant etc , i could be wrong tho
Find out Sunday when i have a go at doing it
_________________ Silver A6 TDI 140bhp SE Avant , S6 8*17" wheels, S4 Black interior , Audi 100 Audi sport steering wheel ,cruise fitted by bladerunner , Dual HID`55w/35w , 385k miles and still trucking
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:05 pm
Quote:
is it possible to tell which colour plugs related to which sensor number ?
Not sure what you mean but from my reply above:-
Actuator motor for fresh air flap V70Blue(443 820 511)
Control motor for temperature regulation V85Red(443 820 511B)
Control motor for temperature regulating flap V68Black(443 820 511A)
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I Have Genuine Vag Com Hex Can 2+2, Vag Tacho & Snap-on Modis latest software
duff_audi Needs to get out more
Joined: Dec 02, 2007
Posts: 114
Posted:
Sun Oct 12, 2008 8:57 pm
good news its all fixed now and was rather easy , no heater matrix out required or anything. Just need to take the wipers of and the panels underneath them and the bracket on the case
I took apart the servo and plugged in the only motor and pot only and then tested it with a mate holding onto it and found it to be the motor that had expired , so fitted new motor from the working servo ( Many thank bladeruner for the new Servo)
Its a tight fit getting in there but one of these torches / magnets proved very usefull indeed. I also had to borrow a mini socket set that had a phillips scredriver end so that to could get in those hard to reach places
Did not fit all the screws , just the top 2 to the outside cover , much easier and should be fine
Here is a pic of wipers off and panels removed
Tested and is working perfectly , Super happy now , many thanks to all that helped !!!
_________________ Silver A6 TDI 140bhp SE Avant , S6 8*17" wheels, S4 Black interior , Audi 100 Audi sport steering wheel ,cruise fitted by bladerunner , Dual HID`55w/35w , 385k miles and still trucking
jubbly Camped on the site
Joined: Mar 04, 2008
Posts: 346
Posted:
Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:44 pm
Spent the afternoon doing mine to, all seems to be sorted and working at last
Put my chips in to thanks Jon
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:08 pm
no problem chaps
Been fitting new front suspension to mine, struts I've modified with some of the negative camber dialled out, that's a side effect of the lowering.
Had the struts blasted and powder coated, new wheel bearings , new springs and new shortened koni dampers, new discs & pads
I also cleaned the wheel arches (looked new, no rot) but I still painted it all with underbody sealant including in wheel arch lip the only place they seem to rust.... eventually..
tomorrow I'll be on cambers and tracking..
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jubbly Camped on the site
Joined: Mar 04, 2008
Posts: 346
Posted:
Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:25 pm
Well it's lasted nearly two years but same motor has packed in again!!
Looks like a job for today or tomorrow
_________________ Gone but not forgotten A6 (C4) 1997 2.5 TDi Quattro Avant 140bhp circa 170bhp (Chipped, K&N, PP502 nozzles) S3 Chrome Mirrors
A6 (C5) 2.5 TDi Quattro Avant 220ps Remapped, Xenons, Sat nav+, Bluetooth, f+r sensors, MFSW, RS6 Leather
jubbly Camped on the site
Joined: Mar 04, 2008
Posts: 346
Posted:
Sat Jun 12, 2010 3:34 pm
still got the motor you sent me jon so just fitted that, remembered that we just cleaned my old one and regreased it, put your lookslike new one in now.
Though seams to be the least of my worries as the air con is still not working compressor not kicking in at all, don't fancy changing that as i've only just had it re gased!
_________________ Gone but not forgotten A6 (C4) 1997 2.5 TDi Quattro Avant 140bhp circa 170bhp (Chipped, K&N, PP502 nozzles) S3 Chrome Mirrors
A6 (C5) 2.5 TDi Quattro Avant 220ps Remapped, Xenons, Sat nav+, Bluetooth, f+r sensors, MFSW, RS6 Leather
urs6josh Newbie
Joined: Sep 01, 2010
Posts: 1
Posted:
Wed Sep 01, 2010 4:01 pm
I have a similar problem. I can only get air out of the dash vents and never from the floor or defrost. I am assuming this is a servo issue with the directional-flap.
Does anyone have any pictures of where the servo is located?
BladeRunner Got Nothing Better To Do
Joined: Feb 03, 2008
Posts: 1257
Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Posted:
Fri Sep 03, 2010 10:25 pm
iro behind the ash tray, it's the blue one V70 you are looking for as far as I can tell
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I Have Genuine Vag Com Hex Can 2+2, Vag Tacho & Snap-on Modis latest software
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