Audi 80/ 90 Front Door card/ window / lock / handle removal
Date: Sunday, June 24, 2012 @ 13:46:59 BST
Author: audioc
Topic: Workshop, Technical Help, etc.

Door alterationsNeed to change/ adjust the front door window/ glass/ frame, or change the locks/ handles on a series 3 80/ 90? (May also be applicable to other Audi models like the series 4 Audi 80, Avant, etc.)

Hopefully this guide will help.











Door complete

Recently, my own car was subject to a theft attempt; the amount of damage was stupid- and unnecessary. DEtails of that can be found in the forums, HERE.

Anyway, onto the task in hand- using the passenger side lock replacement as the example- drivers side is similar, except for additional wires for the electric mirrors/ windows.....

Tools required:

Philips screwdriver(s), pliers, Torx bits, flat bladed screwdriver, pliers, 13mm/ 15mm 17mm socket/ spanner(s), patience and a swear box....





Figure 1

Figure 2

First thing to do is to remove the door card: there are several screws to remove here (click the images for bigger versions)

In Figure 1 (right) you can see a screw arrowed on the leading edge of the door (Philips)- remove this.






In figure 2 (left) you can see a screw arrowed on the trailing edge of the door- remove this.




Figure 3Figure 4In Figure 3 (right) you can see 2 more screws (arrowed) that need removing. Once you've removed these, it should be possible to remove the lower part of the grab handle from below.


In figure 4 (left), you should be able to see the screws (arrowed) securing the door card to the door. There could be 3 screws, there could be 4... remove these.





Figure 5One of the last screws to remove (to get the door card off) is behind the finger pull trigger for opening the door from the inside. Pull the trigger back (as if to open the door) and behind that is a Philips screwdriver - this needs to be removed. (See Figure 5, right)

Figure 6It should now be possible to remove the door card- although there will be some "resistance"; The door cards slot onto the door- removal is a matter of lifting the card directly upwards towards the top of the door/ window. The "resistance" is due to any electrical cabling (for the electric windows) and the cable from the interior door trigger. Do not attempt to lift to far up- you need to lift it high enough (about an inch/ inch and a half) so that the locating lugs on the door card are away from the door itself.


Looking at figure 6 (left) you can see the door card lifted, and moved away from the door slightly. The image is looking down from above. Identified in that picture is a clip (1)- this needs to be removed and stored safely. Note orientation of the clip. 2 identifies where the hook is from the end of the cable that opens to door from the inside- this is the rear of the trigger. Remove the clip and unhook the cable. Once that is done, you can provide yourself with a little more room to unplug the cables into the window switch. It should then be possible to completely remove the door card from the door.




Figure 8To gain access to the handle/ lock mechanism, it's advisable to remove the window glass and frame.

This sounds daunting, but only takes a couple of minutes.

Ensure any cables that are attached to the inner frame work of the door are unclipped. Also, on the rear edge of the door, behind the glass/ cartridge of the door, on the inside (near the door latch mechanism) you may "feel" a plastic "strap" that plugs onto a screw thread within the door. This needs to be removed so it is free.

There are also some interconnecting rods, etc. used to connect the door mechanism/ latch etc. together- these are on the rear edge of the door, and should be just visible (these simply rotate to unclip the securing part, then you should be able to remove the hook/ rod)

Looking at figure 7 (right) 2 bolts are arrowed (this is the leading edge of the door).

Mark their location is possible (helps to re-align the upper door when refitting) and remove.

It's advisable to slacken all 4 bolts mentioned here then remove while supporting to upper door frame (if somebody can help you for a couple of minutes, bonus, but it is possible on your own)

Figure 8 (left) shows the 2 bolts to remove on the rear edge of the door.


Figure 9Once all 4 bolts are removed, check that nothing is still attached/ in the way and lift the whole upper door frame assembly and cartridge- this is the complete window glass, frame, electric motor and runners, along with cables for the window mechanism- left up and towards you, and place somewhere "safe".

Figure 9 (right) shows the interconnecting rods/ etc. that are visible before you attempt to remove the complete upper door assembly with cartridge, motor, etc.











Figure 10Figure 11Once it's all removed, you should be able to see as per figure 10 (left)

You will need to disconnect the rods (labelled C and D)

Figure 11 (right) shows another view, complete with rods in place. (Ones to remove are arrowed)











figure 12Figure 12 (left) shows the lock parts.

Note the orientation of the parts- particularly B (spring) and C (latch). This is the fiddliest part of the whole process, and took me a LONG time, and lots of patience.....

The circlip (C) needs to be removed. You can then remove the plate that the connecting rods connect to& the lugged washer, complete with tensioned spring.

You should then be able to push the lock barrel through and out from the other side (outside) of the door. If you want to change the handle surround (for colour coded ones, perhaps?) there is a locating ring that needs to be rotated, and a screw the other side- it should then be possible to remove the handle and surround from the outside and change if necessary.


Refitting is the reverse of removal. Here's some tips, though.......

Patience refitting the spring/ tagged washer- ensuring that the spring is correctly located and under tension. Check once refitted, along with the circlip, that the key/ barrel returns to it's proper rest position, before connecting any of the rods back. If it doesn't return to the centre position, it's not fitted correctly.

If you marked the position of the bolts securing the upper window, if you get it right, it shouldn't tkae long to adjust it. You can adjust the height at the front and rear of the door, as well as the angle in/ out to get the best "fit" when closed..

It's a pig of a job. At various stages, check everything works as it should with regards the lock/ handle mechanisms. You can close the door latch with the door open manually- this will is to check both door handles work. Also check the locking mechanism AND all latches work as they should.

When refitting the door card, the locating lugs/ pegs on the door card itself- there should be small rubber pieces that fold over where they hook into the door that cover the metal work- these are to stop the door card vibrating.

Getting the push rod for the door lock (inside, comes out of the door) can be a pain to get into the hole- easier if the window is down (this can be done without fully refitting the door card)

Make sure all cables are secure/ out of the way so as not caught by the window as it goes up and down. (Again, check this before you completely refit the door card)

The cable for the door pull- the top locating lug to the door is a PIG to refit- and don't forget to refit the clip near where the hook located in the door trigger mechanism- otherwise it may stop working....


Double check everything before final refit.


Hope it helps- feedback in the forums- here:

As with all posts on the site; doing this is at your own risk- neither myself- or the site- or any users are responsible for any actions/ damage from following this guide











This article comes from

The URL for this story is: