could the exhaust be the problem

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

hi chaps further to my post [where can i get a tps for a 93 2.3 10 valve auto],could this be the problem i have been having major running probs with the car since last april ,if you read the other post you will get the idea,anyway a few months ago ,i saw what i thought was a lump of horse hair hanging out the exhaust ,and as the people opposite own horse ,i assumed it was from them,to day i messed around withe the car ,still all the old problems,then 2 massive back fires through the air box ,got it started ,then noticed what i thought was the horse hair ,but it was fibre glass coming from the exhaust in lumps,i revved it and more came out ,i turned it off because smoke was coming up in the engine bay from underneath could a blocked exhaust be causing the probs mentioned in the previous post,has anyone had this prob ,,car is obviously not get the gases away as it should causing to much pressure ,hence bad starting irratic idle etc ,,also wondering if a rat or mouse got up there as there were bird nuts under the bonnet ,any thoughts cheers

Posted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 9:51 pm

could be if poss take off the rear box and see if it runs better. im assuming that this is only coming from the rear box?

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

well took the rear box off ,and away it went,tick over smooth ,all seems well ,but there is one other minor problem ,when i was checking all the fuses a while back,when i started having all the problems i noticed the lambda sensor fuses was blown ,so i change it ,but it made the car race when it was removed it slowed down ,so this morning i went out tried to start it ,no joy ,put the lambda fuse in and it started first time ,but it idles high ,soon as its warm ,i removed the fuse and it idles fine ,even with the lambda dissconected ,if you put the fuse in it races ,no idea how long the fuse has been blown ,but it past an mot when i first got it a while back before all the probs.so from cold like this morning very cold starts wth the fuse in ,but have to take it out to even out the idle and stop it running lumpy ,,any ideas on that really wierd ,but im pleased that at least part of the problem is sorted cheers steve

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

just thought i would clarify ,the fuse in question is the [heating for lambda probe no 25, 5/10 amp put the fuse in when the car is cold it starts almost first time ,leave it out and it struggles to start ,if you leave the fuse in ,car hunts or revs increase,remove it and it idles okay,if you disconnect the lambda ,fuse still has the same effect cheers steve

Posted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:16 pm

From cold, the lambda isn't used.

The heater circuit is used to assist heating the lambda probe to its required operating temperature.

Is the lambda probe new ?

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

Yesot etc the lambda is new but it did the same with the old one ,why is this causing the problems if its only for heating the lambda ,I suspect that this fuse was blown when I got the car .the car always seemed to run very sluggish ,but with this fuse in it revs more freely although I have not test driven yet as the bumper is off ,no mot etc ,but revving it with the fuse in it does rev more freely ,,but as I said before even with the lambda unplugged it still ides high or hunts. Cheers steve

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

this might help ,i counted the bloody fuses wrong ,its not the lambda warm up fuse ,its engine timing [2 ]fuse thats causing the problem ,put it in the car either hunts or races and runs lumpy,take it out car idles fine but does not seem to rev freely ,and it wont start from cold without this fuse

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:32 pm

maybe the fuse was removed/blown or in (sorry i cant remember fuse in works properly or not) not 100% sure but maybe its running on a get home mode ( or similar ) somebody has had the timing done when its been blown.

might be a good idea to have someone or get get someone to check the timing

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

What does this fuse actually control?why does it run erratic with it in ,yet runs smooth with it out?THINK I MAY START A NEW POST ABOUT IT

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 5:22 pm

Pretty sure it's part of the ecu circuitry which controls the advance / retard of timing.

I posted up wiring diagrams for the NG cab here:

http://s2-audi.co.uk/workshop/schematics/cabriolet/cabby.htm

select the NG engine link. Each picture can be expanded by clicking on it

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

Thanks for that mike ,bit beyond my electrical know howbut the drawings will help an auto electrician mate of mine ,would really like to sort it myself so may have a go cheers again

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:30 pm

Is the timing set up to proper TDC. My 8v had all sorts of wierdness until timing was set properly

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

put another back box on today ,and its running like shit,with the timing 2 fuse in its all over the show ,and at some point it sounds like the cranks about to snap ,it sort of kicks back ,if that makes sence,with it out ,its not to bad but a bit lumpy,its not an air leak ,i sorted those out ,so i am stumped again ,could it be a faulty ecu ,is this common.i think this problem was there when i got the car ,i got it for nothing so its no big deal ,im pretty sure this fuse ,timing 2 was blown when i got the car ,it always ran sluggish really got to get to the bottom of this ,otherwise its a breaker ,and its really to good for that

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:50 pm

You need to run VAG-COM or similar sort of code reader on the car mate, without it youll be hunting forever and a day to fix faults

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

your right vag com would point me in the right direction ,but nobody is local to me ,here in norfolk ,i already took it for a diagnostic ,and it showed air leak ,on no 4 injector,sorted that , changed hoses etc,im going to try one last thing before i torch it [joke],ive been reading about the knock sensor seems this can cause the problems ive got if it goes bad,rough idle etc ,so its fairly cheap so ill get one and see where we go from there

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:04 pm

I've never managed to get VAG Com to work on the NG engine

Blink code reader is the only way

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

thanks mike ,do you think the knock sensor is wirth a try ,or am i just pissing in the wind cheers steve

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 5:18 pm

dont think the NG engine uses a knock sensor, could be wrong tho

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

Yes it does have knock sensor ,put it on today ,no bloody difference,still can't understand why it runs smoother without the back box on ,okay it still idles fast with timing 2 fuse in but its much less erratic

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

still no joy withe car ,i took the rear box off again ,and ran it ,the car runs so much smoother without it ,okay i still have the high idle with timing 2 fuse in ,but its even idle ,with the box on it pops and farts a bit when hot .if i remove the lead for the air aux valve ,the car calms down ,but without it connected the car is really sluggish ,im wondereing know if the air aux valve is staying open ,although its new ,but then again it was from ebay ,but it still does not answer the question why is the car smoother without the rear box?,,TIME FOR A FAG CHEERS GUYS

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:51 pm

try a genuine ISV and see what happens and like i said i have one here

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

thanks jamie ,how much you want for it ,cheers mate

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:34 pm

i was at the garage this mornin and they had a skyline in which had similar problems to yours and he put a cheep aux air valve from ebay and they told him to get a 2nd hand genuine one so i think you maybe in the right area.

Have a look on ebay for one as they are all the same and you can use them from corsas, cavaliers, astras etc pugeot mi16 v engines etc all fit. If you send "audibits2" a message on ebay he'll have one

i would want £10 inc postage for mine but i work 7 - 5 everyday so wouldnt be able to send it till next sat, possibly earlier but doubt it. If you have no joy from there ill send you mine.

But im gathering you want to get one asap

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:07 pm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-90-2-3-20V-COUPE-QUATTRO-2-3E-NG-2L-16V-IDLE-CONTROL-VALVE-ISV-/230736105881?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b8f19199

try this

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 10:27 pm

Just wondering out loud, if maybe the timing has been reset with the offending fuse blown, it could also be the case that the idle has also been reset with the fuse blown. Now that you are running with the fuse restored, the idle setting is 'wrong'?
Idle adjustment on the throttle body would be a slot headed brass screw fitted into the end of a tube shaped structue which is part of the throttle body casting. Clockwise to reduce airflow, anticlockwise to increase. Sometimes the adjustment does not appear to have any effect, this is because the ISV can be influencing things.
Do not adjust the throttle stop screw/locknut, this tends to mess up the idle switch operation and is not a good idea.
It could just be the case that whatever the 'default' setting of the Chinese copy ISV's is, it is not the same as the original. If this is the case, an idle adjustment may make the copy ISV a workable proposition. lots of post 92 cars do not have the idle air screw, so not an option...

Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:49 pm

suppose it could be a blocked cat. Either replace it or remove and knock out the internals if it is blocked. Compressed air through it may clear it.

Adding the tailbox creates even more restriction and causes it run poorly.

This however is not related to the fuse problem

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

hi chaps well the isv was at fault ,load of rubbish put a geniune one on tick over okay ,but then out of the blue it strted running lumpy ,found that the hose that runs from the air intake to the isv,has a split ,its the small hose that branches of and goes into the inlet manifold at the back of the engine ,went to audi ,they no longer make it ,tried breakes etc no joy ,this small pipe has some sort of valve in it ,so may be tricky to get one made ,plus the expense of getting it made ,any ideas chaps steve

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:24 pm

steve as per your other thread covering this try here http://www.vw-audi-specialists.co.uk/intro.html

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

thanks for that breakers i have emailed them ,,,,jamie any luck at the breakers for the hose?cheers steve

Camped on the site Joined: Feb 20, 2009 Posts: 271

daz the dogg,are you sure that breakers yard is still there ?i sent 4 emails ,and many phonecalls but no reply ,just wondered if they had moved or something cheers steve