Your Real Estate Professionals In Spain
Audifans.net: Audi Forums

www.audifans.net :: View topic - Project Sooty quick read thread. Dialup users beware.
 
 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 
View next topic
View previous topic
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.
Author Message
jas11n
Site ADMIN
Site ADMIN



Joined: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 14191
Location: Durham, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

PLEASE be aware, this thread is VERY photo intensive. If you are on a dialup connection, you may want to reconsider, it'll take an age to load.
Original thread located >>> HERE
Also note, this thread is locked for replies. Thanks.

This is the project Sooty quick read thread.
The original project thread now has over 1700 replies and is 58 pages long.
Hopefully this thread will make it easier and quicker to see the cars progress without reading through the original VERY long version.

..........................................................................................................

My current baby of the last four years is a 1995 Audi S2 coupe which I adore, but using it as a daily driver was not only piling the miles on, the currently shocking price of petrol in the UK forced my hand into looking for something a little more economical for my 50 miles round trip to work five day a week. This means the S2 is now a weekend toy or occasional car and I get to spend a bit more time on her.
More economy meant a TDi, and in wanting to stay with what I know of the B4 chassis Audi's, that meant an 80 TDi in either Avant or Sedan guise.
I much prefer the look of the sedan so the hunt was on. I'm a stranger to TDi's in general, but not what they are bolted into Audi wise
I initially wanted just a scruffy work hack, nothing to look at but with good mechanicals. I found one, scruffy wasn't the word, but ohhh how that changed after a week or so when the modding bug got a grip. I just couldn't drive it with a bag on my head after only a few days.

The brief was, make it look good on a tight budget. I had a limit spend of 1200 and didn't want to go over it.
What I ultimately want it to look like, and there's no reason to say it can't be done, is to visually look like an S2 saloon (never came to the UK, only 307 ever built)



Ok, to the car itself. It was picked up on the 9th of feb from Coventry for a paltry 250. Caught the train to Tamworth, Andy (site owner, AOC chief and good friend) picked me up.
The car came without a radio, so before leaving Tamworth a trip to Halfords and back saw me buy an new RDS tuner headunit with CD-R front loader for 40. Fitted in a crack by Andy, it's not as bad as I thought it would be for 40, radio reception is fine, plays CD's no bother and the sound quality is ok, but MILES away from the Becker headunit recently fitted to my S2, but then that was 300 so you'd expect some difference.
Drive home was great, the car is quiet, VERY economical, brakes are good, engine pulls very well, clutch good, gearbox good.

The next day (monday) saw me with a day off work, so first off was to change a few interior items. The ugly four spoke steering wheel had to go, in it's place a spare 3 spoke sport wheel was put on instead. Most of the small 5mm wedge bulbs throughout the car on things like the switches, the heater controls etc were out. I've replaced all of these, every last one in the car has been replaced even if it was working or not. This means they are all the same brightness and should in theory save me having to pull stuff apart again when another one blew.
Dash binnacle bulbs were out on all but two of them. So they've all been replaced too.
The interior was in a poor condition, so the seats and carpets were vacuumed (took "three" hours) and then cleaned with a vetrella wet n dry.. All the trim and dash was washed down with neat Megs APC and then treated to Aerospace 303 trim protectant.
A set of mats were added (ok, coupe ones, but I had them so used them)


A spare genuine used wing was given to me by Andy, it came from his recently sold 80 avant and was in emerald green. I'm also a big hater of the standard front bumper, what possessed Audi to design it looking like a speed boats hull I'll never know, so that's coming off. In it's place a spare S2 front bumper from my slightly excessive parts stash.
With that I'll have to change the headlights or I'll have four front indicators. So a set of face lifted coupe headlights will go in, with some clear indicators and the fogs in the new bumper.
I'll be colour coding the door handles and the wing mirrors, along with the black rubbing strips mid way up the doors. That leaves the rear bumper being removed and replaced with a S2 avant rear bumper recently sourced.
All above will be done by myself, apart from the laser red top coat on the wing and bumper as I can't get the finish I want. 40 is what a mate wants to do this, so I'd rather he did it, than me doing it and always hating it.

Lastly, the wheels. Currently it's on it's original steelies, 195/65/15 with no wheel trims either. I want alloys though. I have a set of 17" five spoke alloys that would look great, but the tyres are really best their sell by date and I'm not keen on 17" after been there with them on my S2. Though after driving this car for a while now, I think the 17's won't be that bad. The S2's suspension is SOOOO much harder than this shuggy boat 80's suspension.
So, as this is a cash saving car, I'm not about to fork out for some tyres. I have a spare set (two spare sets really) of S2 16" avus wheels with brand new tyres on them. But, 5x112 avus don't bolt to 4x108 hubs. Five stud conversion? I'm not sure. Ideally as the car is supposed to be saving me cash, I want to look at other avenues first. Converters or redrilling the hubs maybe.
We'll see.

Ok, pictures so far.

This is the exterior as it was when I picked it up. Pretty faded with a few knocks and scrapes. Apart from the front driver wing (awful isn't it) they'll all repair with a little elbow grease and time. No rust anywhere else apart from that drivers wing.







First up was to sort the inside.
Bit of hoovering, shampooing and dash trim dressing, it went from this;







This this;











I'm missing the dash badge but they are still available to buy new, not a lot at 7 or so. I'll also keep an eye on ebay for a full length switch panel and some blanks as I'll need to put in a front foglight switch and they isn't space as it is now.

I'll probably have to lower it, or it'll look like it's on stilts, but I can do that later on this year, possibly tying it up with top mount replacements as I think one is on the way out (got a spring twang going on).

Wing and bumper are done and primed, off to painters.

Still not the right weather for anthing paint spray related, spitting on and windy so no go on colour coding the trims (booo).

Tidied a few things up, jubilee clips on the windscreen washer pipes junked and replaced with cable ties (they have a habit of popping out when they get old)
Chopped out the expanding foam that had been used to try and repair a leaky bonnet release cable grommet, it was covering half of the fusebox so I couldn't get in there to replace the dicky intermittent wiper relay (sometimes worked, sometimes didn't, leaving wipers parked anywhere they wanted)
Bonnet cable undone at the slam panel end, new bonnet release cable grommet slipped on and moved around the cable into position in the bulkhead. That's that sorted. Forgot to take a pic of the grommet in position.



Wipers now sorted.

Boot loom had been butchered by Sweeny Todd in the past, so repaired that today.
What seemed like 16 rolls of red insulating tape removed, wires extended properly, joints soldered and heatshrinked, removed a terminal block and covered the repaired loom in two long sleeves of heatshrink, cable tying the loom out of the way of the rubber boot seal as before it had been getting jammed in there, enough to damage it.















Bumper and wing back from the painters. Not bad for a favour and bung Very Happy
Painted in good old two pack, none of this water based nonsense.







(01/03/2008)

Weather held out, sort of. Not raining bit still extremely windy. Bonnet blew shut a few times, one of them on my hand. Nice big chunk taken out of three fingers and blood all over the shop Rolling eyes Sad

Still, thoroughly enjoyed doing it.
So, wing, bumper, headlamps, fogs, side repeaters and indicators are fitted. Also adjusted the drivers door, now has a nice easy click on shutting, rather than a clank and bang.

It would have been rude to do the whole thing without snapping some pictures, so took a boat load while doing the lot.

First up, out with the old headlamps and indicators; Being supervised by my trusty dog Oscar. He soon got fed up and legged back into the warmth of the house, the big girl he is Laughing



Next up was to remove the bumper; Bloody hell, now that is one mother of a radiator :yikes:



Off with the wheel so I could remove the arch liner;



Shockingly bad rust on the wing. VERY poor quality pattern part wing;





And the wing off the car;



Next up, adjusting the door while the normally hard to get to bolt is nicely exposed.
The door had dropped, so that meant I needed to adjust the bottom hinge out. I temporarily refitted the wheel and dropped it back onto the floor, as the body is twisted with one corner in the air, no use doing this with the body twisted.









I didn't have the U shaped brackets needed for to hold the bumper to the other brackets that are used. Did have those thankfully, so just made the others out of some 2mm ally that I had. That saw the wing on and the bumper fitted on the front fixings. Fixed the bumper to the arches.







Next up putting the fogs, indicators, trims and headlamps in.
One side done;



Then the other;





Done;



Still stuff to do tomorrow. Start to machine polish the car, currently looks three different shades of red. I "may" have to get the drivers door sprayed as it was previously sprayed along with that pattern wing and is ever so slightly a different colour. Got some new number plates on order, will stick them on rather than being fixed on with ugly screws.

Oh, I've deliberately not shown a shot of the new wing. I'll do that tomorrow after the car has had a good while under various lake country pads and some Menzerna IP and FF.

Off for a blood transfusion Laughing Very Happy

(02/03/2008)

Well, as usual our great climate called an end to the day. Has been spitting on and off all day, but progressively longer and heavier rain spells put an end to play.
Managed to get the whole front end and the whole drivers side done, apart from the rear bumper as I'm not touching that. A nice S2 avant rear is on it's way.
Started making progress down the passenger side, but half way down the passenger front door I had to quick sharpish stop and pack away as the rain was getting too heavy.

Used a whole green Sonus clay bar and nearly a litre and a half of Megs last touch as lube, the most tar spots I've ever seen, There were tar spots on top of tar spots and all other manner of bonded on contaminants, mainly on the lower flanks.
Just about destroyed one Lake country 3" cutting pad so far, even though the Menzerna Intensive Polish is good stuff, I still had to do three rounds on each panel before moving onto some Menzerna Final Finish compound on a 3" medium pad, the paint was that scratched and oxidised.
Haven't had time to put any LSP on, but I'm on late shift all week so I can get a good bit done each morning.
The drivers door as said previously, looked a slightly different colour. I thought as it had obviously been sprayed along with that old wing, that it had a clear coat on top as it wasn't faded like the rest of the car.
Nope, it's a flat colour too, and after spending what seemed an age on it, it's come up a lot better than I thought. Still ever so slightly the wrong shade, but I think for the time being I'll leave it as is.
The bottom leading edge of the bonnet and both headlamp trims were a PITA too. I may remove the headlamp trims and rub them down and repaint. They came up shiny, but have a LOT of stone chips.

Ok, pictures, Tried to keep them in some sort of order. I'm well chuffed with the colour match of the new wing and bumper to the bonnet and the nearside wing. Well happy with it.
REALLY needs some alloys, ANY alloys as long as those black steelies go. Amen.




















Still very much a work in progress, but I'm so far pleased at how it's coming along. A fruitful if wet and windy weekend.

Planning ahead to the badging on the rear of the car.

New "Audi" badge bought for the nearside, new rings for the centre and new 1.9 badge for the offside.
That left the TDi part which I thought I'd change to something a bit different.
The car certainly in no way deserves a red "i" but seeing as it's a bit more green than a usual diesel with it's veggie oil power, I thought a green "i" would look quite cool.
So purchased a TDi red i badge in the correct font, and will paint the red i green.

This is the one I purchased, messed around in a paint program to show you how it'll look.



Also a picture of the five spoke 17's I have, Have been offered four tyres, new but a budget make, for not a lot.
Still can't decide if I like them though.
They are polished and lacquered.
Maybe a bit bling. Will try them on one side of the car and see what they look like.



04/03/08

Popped those 17's on this morning. Hmmm!! can't make my mind up if they suit.
Tyres on them are all wrong though, they are 215/40/17's where they should be 225/45/17 for a perfect rolling match to the original 195/65/15.



08/03/08

Just couldn't sit around all day doing nothing to it.
So braved the strong winds and biting horizontal rain to remove the wing mirrors, so I could paint them.
Gave em a rub over with a scotch pad, rubbed down with cellulose thinners and then primed with three coats of red primer.
Finally, four top coats of Laser Red with about 20 mins in between coats. May not be the correct way to paint things, but it works for me.

Will let the paint cure until tomorrow, then get the machine on it to shine it up a bit more.
Really has got a strong orange tint to Laser Red in the right/wrong light.





09/03/08

Again to windy to spray anything, grrrr.
So, finished off all the paintwork over at my dads place.
Not touched rear bumper as it's getting replaced, or the bootlid as it needs rubbing down and spraying.

Passenger side and roof done. Then Klasse sealant glaze and Collinite 476s on top. Also rubbed down the rear tailpipes, they were a bit black.
Oh, adjusted bootlid too, was sitting a bit low when closed.

Still left to do, As mentioned above, rear bumper replaced, bootlid rubbed down and resprayed, new rear badges, trim line and door handles colour coded, sort the dent in the rear offside door and sort wheels eventually. Still waiting on bumper grilles from vagparts.
The wheels will stay on there for now, they are better than the steelies, just!!


My dad just couldn't get over the difference, me neither really come to think of it. Has come up rather well.












Got given another TDi badge and thought, "Stick it on the front grille" It's funny looking at the B4 grille without it having a badge at the side :hide:
So made a mount for it, stuck the lettering onto the mount, painted the white plastic of the mount that was showing through the lettering, satin black.
The mount was fashioned out of some white plastic material left over from when I had some UPVC windows fitted. It slots into one of the grille slats and I'll keep it in place with some JB-weld on the reverse. (note, that's just a spare front grille)
Going to pop into a graphics/sign writer place tomorrow after work and see if I can nab an offcut of green vinyl to turn the red "i" green.







So far, it's turned out pretty well for a spend of around 580 "including" the car Very Happy







21/03/08

Things have slowed somewhat over the last week on the project.
Two slipped discs have seen me laid out over the last four days. Fourth time in six months and it's getting to be a pain in the arsss...e................back.

Have managed to rub down and paint the S2 avant rear bumper, that in itself was is huge task for someone who knows little about painting large items like this, not to mention trying to do it while not being able to move, but the exercise will do me good.
Even with an offer off my bro of fitting it, doesn't look possible for the next two days at least with the weather YET AGAIN throwing a huge spanner in the works.
No worries though, it's not like I'm in a rush.




Dog approved respray



24/03/08

Big thanks to my bro for doing this today, I',m still laid out with two slipped discs.

Spot the difference Very Happy




As usual, Audi throws a curve ball.
FA (ETKA for you VAG guys) states that the two big alloy retainers that slot into the two holes on the rear panel, are different between S2 avant/saloon and the rest of the 80 saloon and avants.

WRONG! they are the same. Apart from the black cap that pops in the end, one having a sort of rubbery skirt, the other didn't but they switch over, both alloy brackets are 100% EXACTLY the same. Even the same part number.
I'd fretted about this and had sourced some if needed, then when I picked the bumper up from Andy's, was relieved they were there. Just as well I didn't go buy some new ones, they are around 50 each Shocked.

Only parts I needed to buy, where two plastic retainers that are secured to the body work on the sides. You remove the old ones, fit these and the S2 bumper secures to it with two pop rivet type plastic inserts (you can use the old ones you pull out)

To remove old bumper, remove two plastic pop rivet type plugs in the wheel arch, remove two lower self tappers too, remove circular cover cap in the black trim in front of the lock catch, remove the self tapper below it, remove four M10X100mm bolts in the boot floor (two either side) pull back on the bumper, go round each side and pull back and down on each corner to unclip it from the retainers and pull the whole bumper back and off.

There's a black plastic trim the runs along the top edge of the old bumper, that you need to remove and swap to the new one, it's just clipped on.
Then it's just a case of offering up new bumper, slotting the alloy brackets into the holes (slightly unbolt and they move up down left and right if needed), secure the self tapper in the centre and pop the circular cover back on, popping in and tightening down the four bolts in the boot floor and popping in the plastic rivets in the wheel arch, followed by the two lower self tappers.

Pictures are in no particular order, sorry.
















Hoping soon it'll look like this; Car is getting lowered 40mm with a spax spring kit.



Side trim, door handles and boot to do next.

13/04/08

Update;
Weather killed last weekend, this weekend has been about the S2 mainly, getting some much needed TLC.

The 5x112 converters are not possible, well they are, but at the expense of being safe in the knowledge that they won't fail.
Rear 5x112 hubs from a FWD Audi 100 have been sourced and paid for. V6 front driveshafts "had" been sourced, but seller has now done a Lord Lucan and disappeared, thankfully not with my money.
Just need to source said driveshafts and S2 front hubs with hub carriers.

Did manage to do something on the old tractor today, thought I'd give it's engine a bit of a spruce up.

Before;








After;








_________________
2001 Avus Silver RS4.
2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport LE..

1995 S2 Coupe - sold
1995 A6 Avant TDi - sold
1993 80 TDi - sold
1990 90 2.3 auto - scrapped
1989 Coupe 2.3e - sold
1990 cq20v - sold
1990 80 2.8 quattro - sold

Last edited by jas11n on Thu Dec 17, 2009 1:50 pm; edited 2 times in total 
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
jas11n
Site ADMIN
Site ADMIN



Joined: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 14191
Location: Durham, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top



31/05/08

An overdue update.
Lots been done over the last month. She's lowered now Smile NO! tell a lie, she's damn well slammed Laughing

Picked up a full set of front and rear struts with lowering springs fitted, got them through the post to find one rear spring snapped. In fairness to the seller, they were mortified that they'd not spotted it and set yet another complete rear setup FOC.







In any case, didn't use any of them as I spotted a set of brand new Spax springs on the bay. Only problem was the seller didn't know how far of a drop they'd give.
Bid on them, won them (brand new don't forget) for 10.50. Ebay had given me a voucher for a tenner so they only cost me 50p Laughing AOC member Alam Cudlip (V6) relayed them up the country from Bristol to Andy's in Birmingham, I then picked up from Birmingham.
Only thing was to fit em and see what the drop was. Erm, 60mm Shocked

This isn't me by the way, it's my handsome bro Laughing











BEFORE!!


AFTER!!!







31/05/08

Ok, five stud wheels on a four stud setup.
Decided at long last that converters just weren't going to happen. It could have been done, but at the expense of being safe in the knowledge that the car wasn't going to be overtaken by four rogue wheels that had just come loose from the hubs.

That means a five stud hub setup.
First hurdle is the rear, Can't use any S2 gear as it's FWD. I bought two rear five stud hubs from C4 Audi 100 2.6 FWD, they fit the rear no problem, BUT! I just could not find any info anywhere of a suitable rear disc. Wasn't going to start messing with looking at different rear callipers either.
Step forward a mate from germany who showed me his Coupe's rear setup. This route involves using 1995 - 2000 B5 A4 1.6/1.8/1.9 TDi FWD rear discs.
Beauty of these is that the disc IS the hub. The wheel bolts to the disc itself The same wheel bearings and rear ABS rings as the 80 TDi is also used on the A4. So all is required is the A4's discs, new bearings (two each disc, inner and outer) pressed in, new ABS rings heated and pressed on. That's the rear sorted.
Now the ballache that is the front.
This TDi uses 75mm wheel bearings ojn the front, the S2 front hubs press into 82mm bearings. So S2, cq20v7A or 2.8 carriers would be needed. So you fit the carriers (no need for me to worry, my struts have 14mm bolts holes) but then my TDi driveshaft won't fit, too small as they locate into smaller wheel bearings. S2 driveshafts are a no go, this 80 is FWD, meaning unequal length driveshafts even if I fitted the correct flange on the box.
Bit more head scratching. Coupe 2.8 FWD shafts would work. IF I could find any.
Step forward Mike (MikeS2). He kindly located two 2.8 cq front driveshafts and I'm going to remove their outer CV joints and fit them to the end of my TDi driveshafts. Lots of extremely boring internet searching and cross referencing parts, have told me the end of my TDi driveshaft is 24mm in diameter and has a tooth count of 30. I've measured the size and tooth count of the 2.8 CV's and they match. The outer splines of the 2.8 CV match and fit in the S2 front hubs which were sourced from another mate.
New CV boots and a host of new bolts/nuts and washers also sourced.
Going to try and do this little lot of Sunday. Fingers crossed that my boring hours searching on the net pay off and the 2.8 outer CV;'s fit on the end of the TDi shaft.

AH, brakes. Mike also grabbed the G60's from the wrecked 2.8cq, BUT, as said earlier in the thread, I'm well happy with the brakes as they are now on this 80, instant bite and lots of feel, WAY more feel than the Porsche 996's on the S2 as it happens. Probably down to the "no bomb" servo assistance. They fade if really pushed, but this car isn't about being pushed to within an inch of it's life. It's about the mpg on derv and veggie oil and it's looks.
So, two new 280mmx10mm solid discs have had a 5x112 pattern drilled in them. Stock setup then remains.

The A4 discs I bought off ebay came with a set of pads too, but there was a change with these, so you had to choose from one of two options. I had to cross reference part numbers between the 80 and the A4 then cross reference the correct part number needed from my chassis number to the only place I could find a picture. Luckily the pads I need are the same as those fitted to the rear of an S2, so Mikes site provided the picture I needed so I could tell the seller which pad I needed. It's all to do with the pad spring on the top. See pic below, I needed the top set with the flat spring.












Bearings pressed into the disc/hub (two per disc, inner and outer) and new ABS rings pressed onto the rear of the disc/hub.





02/06/08

Boot fitted.
You can see the mess on the old one. Dented, weird smudge marks and lots of peeling lacquer.
Relatively straight forward, will let the pictures do the talking.

BEFORE;








DURING;










AFTER:







Got the discs back off my bro, 280mm x 10mm solid discs in 4x108 redrilled to 5x112;



04/06/08

The doors on the car were just to far gone. Drivers door a slightly different colour, offside rear had a massive dent, nearside rear had a crease under the mid trim and the passenger front door had had the mirror bent down at some point in the past which had dented the metal.
A friend of mine saw four doors on fleabay, bid on them and won, then GAVE me them FOC. Legend. Cost him 28 for four, yes 7 each. He would not take a penny. All I had to do was drive to York and pick them up.
The fronts didn't come with handles, so had to use my original black ones, but no problem as I'll mask and spray them red.
Zero dents and the paint is in great condition Very Happy



05/06/08

The two black 80 front door handles are now laser red, along with the passenger wing trim. That's all the black trim gone and all nicely colour coded same as the S2 saloon.

The handles are painted alloy, so rubbed them down with some 1200 wet n dry, then a scotch pad. Made sure they were clean with copious amounts of cellulose thinners and a microfibre cloth, then masked up and the laser red sprayed directly on. No primer was used on the handles, just on the small bit of wing trim.
Six coats all in all and as the sun was blazing today, I only left around 5 mins between coats. They were dry enough to touch within that time.




















The picture below was taken in 2004 at a show in Edinburgh of my S2. I'd come up on the morning very early doors.

On the A68 I'd had a race with a Goldfinch, it lost Laughing
Funny thing was, I remember seeing it, and thought it had got away. Didn't notice at the show until we'd been in there for a hour. Wondered why people were laughing and pointing at the front of my car Laughing Laughing




Now you are wondering what's this got to do with the Sooty project, stay with with, I'm getting there.
Coming home from work this morning (I've taken a half shift holiday) I saw something bouncing along the road, thrown around by a car in front. I heard a crunch and assumed I had drove over whatever it was. I do remember looking out the mirror and not seeing it, so thought I'd flipped whatever it was into a ditch.

Got home, parked up, had a coffee, drove the car round the back and spent the next 2.5 hours painting, only then did I see something "stuck" to the front bumper. WTF Confused Laughing
It's a Winnie the Pooh kiddies cup LMFAO







06/06/08

I'm knackered;




My Bro




























Just FILL her up Dave Laughing









Anyone lost a finger???



Sooty draws BLOOD :

My bro's hand slipped off a ratchet and he razzed his arm on the wheel arch. Pretty nasty.. All bruised and swollen.


















For those of you who don't personally know me, this is little old me;







Time for a sit back, chill out and have a drink Very Happy





















Cheers chaps Wink

Forgot to post what parts were used to convert to five lugs on Sooty.

Front.

1/ S2 hubs and hub carriers complete with ABS sensors.
2/ Outer CV joints from a 2.8cq,
3/ Outer CV boot kits for a 2.8cq,
4/ New 280mm x 10mm solid front discs, re-drilled for 5x112 PCD
5/ New set of pads.

Rear.

1/ 1995 B5 A4 1.6/1.8/1.9TDi FWD rear discs (the disc IS the hub)
2/ 80/A4 inner and outer wheels bearings,
3/ 80/A4 ABS rings,
4/ New set of pads.

Procedure;

Front.

Before jacking the car up, loosen off the driveshaft retaining bolt. Jack the car up and place securely on axle stands. Remove wheel then remove the driveshaft retaining bolt. Undo pinch bolt on bottom ball joint and use a copper/hide mallet to drop the balljoint off the hub carrier. The front brake discs were relatively new so didn't have a big lip on their outer edge. This meant we could just slip the complete caliper off the discs without removing the pads. Again the pads were relatively new, so it was decided to refit them later. Removed disc, both were firmly stuck to the hub so needed a good few smacks with the mallet to get them off. Remove the three bolts securing the brake shield to the hub carrier (note the brake shield on this TDi, I had a big argument with someone a couple of years ago who said these were only ever fitted to the RS2, nope, my S2 has them too)
Pull forward on the strut/hub carrier and the outer CV will pull through the hub out of the other side. Open the bonnet, locate the two ABS sensor connections, both secured to the front of the strut towers, one behind the air box, the other behind the expansion tank. Push the cabling and connectors through the strut towers to the inside of the wheelarch.
Undo the hub carrier to strut bolts and remove the hub carrier.
Two ways of doing this next bit of removing the CV joint from the end of the driveshaft. This depends if there are two of you working on the car. As both were getting done at the same time on mine, this meant if we had used the method of tightening the hub bolt back in to push the CV off the shaft, it wouldn't have worked as both driveshafts are free to turn. We used the mallet to shock the CV joint off the shaft after peeling back the CV boot. Just a couple of sharp taps and off they came.
Remove the old CV bolt and clean up the end of the shaft.When removing the old CV's, remember to note the correct order and orientation of the dished washer and plastic thrust ring that are on the inboard side of the shaft.
Refitting is the reverse of removal, with a couple of notes to make. Check the new CV in the hub, make sure the ABS sensor isn't fouling the ABS ring, if it is, just "slightly" tap it back until the joint is free to rotate. NOT too much though. Use the grease supplied with the boot kit. Mine came with two separate packets of it, One packet for the joint and one for the boot. Use it!! Be careful when putting the new CV on the end of the shaft, don't go guns blazing with a hammer trying to whack it on. Make sure the splines are engaging BEFORE giving it a knock with the mallet to engage it over the circlip on the end of the shaft. I didn't and nearly fecked the shaft Embarassed
Once everything is reassembled, REMEMBER to torque up the driveshaft retaining bolt when the wheel is back on the ground. A tightening torque of 200nm + 90 is needed. Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes to 200nm. Scary too, thought they were going to snap at that torque Shocked


[Rear.

Make sure handbrake is off!!

Once wheel is off and car secured on stands and the front wheels chocked, use a 13mm and 15mm spanner to undo the slider pins on the caliper, the caliper can then be moved off the carrier and tie wrapped up out of the way. Remove the carrier allen bolts with an allen socket rather than a key, you don't want them rounding off. They are usually VERY tight, so use releasing spray or heat if need using caution as you do.
Once the carrier is out of the way, remove disc. In our case, again both discs were firmly stuck to the hubs, this wasn't a concern as the hub was coming off too. Remove the grease cap being careful not to dent it out of shape, it has to be refitted with a good seal, water ingress at a later date isn't good. Remove split pin, locking ring and then the hex bolt. On both sides of mine the hex bolt was only finger tight as it's supposed to be (more later), remove thrust washer and then grab the disc (or hub if your discs came off easily) and pull the hub off the stub axle. All you'll be left with is a bare hub axle.
Again refitting is reverse of removal with a couple of notes to make.
Clean the stub axle and apply a little high temp grease. Clean the axle backing plate, notably the ABS sensor "without" moving it.
Fit your A4 discs/hub onto the axle and refit the thrust washer and hex nut. DO NOT tighten this hard with a spanner/ratchet. tighten it enough so that the thrust washer behind can be moved with a screwdriver. Refit the locking ring, if the split pin can not be put through one of the holes in the end of the stub axle, DO NOT tighten the hex nut, back it off slightly.
After getting to the stage of refitting the caliper to the carrier, you'll need to wind the piston back in. We didn't have the correct wind back tool, but a pair of long nose pliers did the job without any fuss. Push and turn the piston clockwise back into its bore. Refit wheel.

Once the car is back on all four newly fitted five lug hubs, remember to pump the brake pedal a few times to reseat the pads front and rear. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDBRAKE ON until the pedal has gone hard indicating the pistons in each caliper are where they should be.

Jase..
Wink

Stages so far;







A shot of her parked next to a Steve's (Rev-Head) minter S2 Avant.



15/06/08

Still not managed to get the Avus on Rolling Eyes

Tailpipes done though. Real deal OEM S2 tailpipes too Very Happy Very Happy















19/06/08

Have a chuckle on me..

Slight mishap this morning whilst putting the Avus on. On the first wheel too.
The standard jack collapsed, with my fingers between the "just" removed wheel and the wheel arch. Need a new passenger side wing, think somethings damaged suspension or hub wise as there's a strange noise going on..............oh, and my fingers need to heal, being broken Surprised
Broken the little and third finger of my left hand. I'd just removed the wheel from the hub, exactly at the same time the jack's white plastic bit that the threaded rod passes through stripped it thread, the car came down trapping my fingers between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch. The only thing holding it up was the disc resting on the inside of the rim and the wheel arch resting on top of the tyre with my fingers in there. No one around at my dads, there on my own, so I had to pull my fingers out (hurt like holy ***k)

The car drives, but has a bad offbeat humming noise and a sound of something catching somewhere. The tyre or wheel isn't touching on anything in the arch, so it's got to be disc catching something (maybe brake shield or caliper) or something else.

The wing will not repair, it's buckled to buggery, dented and twisted all over.

Yes I know, use trolley jacks and stands I hear people cry.........to simply change a wheel?? that's what the stupid bloody thing is for :censored:

Mad as hell at the time, but I'll get over it Very Happy

29/06/08

The strange noise was the brake shield rubbing.
Sooty 99.9% finished. All that is needed to complete the S2 saloon look is the ellipsoidal projector headlamps from an RS2 or late S2 Coupe/Avant.

Old wing;



New wing fitted;









And the money shots Very Happy;











A little vid her her on the road. (ignore the human fly thing, it's Andy taking the mik out of my sunglasses, git Laughing]

Linky

I got a bit sidetracked and bought some headlamps off german ebay. Problem was, was that were LHD.
So I converted them.


















The big problem was I couldn't get inside easily, the front lense id bonded on. So I had to get creative and get in through the bottom, then plastic weld them back up. Projector lamps use a metal plate in front of the bulb to dictate the beam pattern. I needed to get to this, remove it and flip it over, moving the beam cut off from the right to the left for the UK. I used a knife blade heated up red hot to "melt" a cut all the way round. Thuis stopped any crap getting inside.



On the second picture I've arrowed the screws I need to remove to slide out that plate. Luckily the plate is symmetrical, so will slide out, turn end on end and slide back in.
One screw is hidden behind that adjuster bolt. The lager pozi screw at the top of the pics I've already managed to remove. The other two will need me to make a tool. Well, my bro is going to do it tomorrow as I'm quite busy.
I had a bit of an idea for this.
He'll get a couple of these pozi bits, chop off the hex end, then weld a 3mm thick rod about 50mm long onto it at 90 so I can get in a remove them.





Converting these headlamps for use in the UK is no easy task.

You need to be prepared to chop a great big hole out of the base, plastic welding it back up later and create two holes on the back for screwdriver access which also need welding back up.
If you are not much of a practical person, walk away.

First up, the idea for the tool I had, which was superbly executed by my bro, wasn't needed in the end. After I'd started unscrewing one of the screws it become obvious that the projector wasn't parting from the frame.




Hmmm?
On closer inspection and with my superhuman sight that can see round corners Laughing I saw there were two other screws directly above them, facing the other way and hidden by the adjuster bolt on the left and the securing screw on the right.



Chopping the bottom off wasn't a mistake thankfully as I still needed to be able to get the beam pattern plate out, flip it round and get it back in.
So, how to get to the screws hidden away at the top? I had to create two holes above them so I could get a screwdriver down. Heating a screwdriver up and then melting through the case meant I could get to them.
Once they were out, the plate came out easy as that.



Note the black pen mark, I had to remove that area to so it matched the width of the other side when slotting it back it.



That done, the plate slotted back in and I could put the screws back in,



and then plastic weld the bottom back on. It's not very pretty, but then it doesn't need to be;



Also needed to close up the two holes created on the top. Same method again, plastic welding rods and a soldering iron Laughing









Once fitted I realised I'd got carried away. With these fitted it wasn't going to look like the car I'd wanted it to look like from the beginning. No problem though, I removed them and sold them. Sold them for the amount I'd paid, it's not about making money. That meant I wasn't out of pocket too and I could get on and search for some real projectors.
They are silly money new, and hard to find secondhand. But a friend of mine in Birmingham had a set so a quick drive down saw the completion of the project.

Again, here is the picture of the car I wanted it to look like.



And the car I'd started out with



Projector lamps fitted and the end of project "Sooty" Very Happy


You can click on each image to see a larger version.

























Approved and signed off by Oscar. It's his mode of transport as much as mine Very Happy





One last thing. After taking those shots I thought the rear lacked something. The tailpipes just didn't look right in black. So I removed the paint back to the stainless steel the pipes are made of.

I prefer them like this.








An HID kit will getting fitted in the next few weeks.
Hope you have not got bored to death and fallen asleep.

Cheers,
Jase..
Wink

_________________
2001 Avus Silver RS4.
2004 A4 Avant 1.8T quattro Sport LE..

1995 S2 Coupe - sold
1995 A6 Avant TDi - sold
1993 80 TDi - sold
1990 90 2.3 auto - scrapped
1989 Coupe 2.3e - sold
1990 cq20v - sold
1990 80 2.8 quattro - sold 
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
Display posts from previous:       
Post new topic   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.

View next topic
View previous topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You can attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum


Forums ©