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Greavesy
Audi Nut



Joined: Apr 21, 2012
Posts: 69

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:46 am Reply with quote Back to top

Wasn't really sure where to put this. Mods, please move if required.
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Hi all,

I've just finished installing fog lights onto my Audi 80.
My car has an S2 front bumper with fogs but originally my 80 didn't have any. This meant only the bulb connectors were in my harness with no plug behind the dash and so I've had to make all the wiring myself.

OBVIOUSLY, YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I'VE DONE THIS ON MY OWN CAR AND IT'S WORKED, IF ANY DAMAGE IS CAUSED TO YOUR VEHICLE I HOLD NO RESPONSIBILITY

To do this you will need the following:

30 amp inline fuse
12v 4 pin 30 amp relay
Pair of S2 / Coupe fog lights
Pair of original connection plugs into light units
Front fog light switch
9 female spade end connectors
1 male spade end connector
4 ring connectors
5 butt connectors (no laughing at the back please)
1 set of crimping pliers
a load of heat shrink tube
about 4 to 5 meters of 1.5mm cable (red)
just under 1 meter of 1.5mm cable (black)
Soldering iron and solder

A few pictures below followed by a description

layout of wiring



push button for dash

1. Ignition
2. Ground
5. +12v from relay
6. To fog lights.

NOTES:

Soldering isn't totally necessary but I did it to all connections to make sure the connections were secure.

When adding connectors make sure to remove the plastic sheathing around the cable. I know it's pretty obvious but if someone doesn't know, they wont do it.

Use a heat gun to shrink the head shrink, using a hair drier doesn't work!!

All lengths are estimates on what i did, check before you cut!

PUT THE FUSE IN LAST!

How to:

From battery Neg.
Use a ring connector, a short length of black cable and a female spade end connector. Crimp both ends and heat shrink. Connect ring connector to negative terminal on battery and female spade to 86 on the relay.

From battery Pos.
Use a ring connector, the inline fuse (with wire), around 2 meters (max) of red cable and 2 female spade end connectors.
Twist the end of the inline fuse wire together with the red cable and crimp on the female spade, add heat shrink. Connect the two wires to spade 87 on the relay, the red cable should then be threaded through the engine bay into the interior. I used a small grommet behind the ABS unit which brought the cable out behind the glove-box, this is a bit of a pain!
On the red cable crimp on a female spade end connector , add heat shrink, connect to pin 5 on the fog light switch Connect the ring connector to the positive end of the battery.

On the switch - spade 1
Use a female spade connector, heat shrink, butt connector and a short section of red cable.
Take a live feed from another switch or alternative live feed, cut the original wire, twist the live wire (from loom) and the red cable together, take the live wire (from switch) and slide on a butt connector, twist all 3 wires together place over the butt connector and crimp, add heat shrink. On the other end of the red cable crimp on a female spade and head shrink, this should then be pushed onto spade 1 of the switch.

On the switch - spade 2
Use a female spade connector, heat shrink, ring connector and a short section of black cable.
Crimp on the female spade to one end of the cable, add heat shrink, push this onto spade 2 of the switch. Crimp on the ring connector to the opposite end of the cable, add heat shrink, to the right of the glove box there are a number of cable earthed, remove the nut and add the ring connector, replace the nut.
NOTE: To drop down the glove-box push in both side with your fingers, it'll drop down.

On the switch - spade 6
Use 2 female spade connectors, heat shrink and a section of red cable (about 2 meters MAX).
Take the one end of the cable and thread it through the same grommet as the cable to spade 5 (on the switch), it is easier to do this from the engine bay. Crimp on the female spade to one end of the cable, add heat shrink, push this onto spade 6 of the switch. In the engine bay crimp on another female spade to the end of the cable, add heat shrink, push this onto spade 85 of the relay.

On the Relay - spade 30
Use a female spade connector, 2 ring connectors, 4 butt connectors, heat shrink, 2 small sections of black cable (about 8 inch long) and 2 sections of red cable (one just over a meter and the other about 1.5 meters).
Take both pieces of cable and twist one end together, crimp on the female spade, add heat shrink, connect to spade 30 on the relay.
For the passenger side take the shorter length of red cable, take one of the original light connectors and side on a butt connector to the live wire, twist together the red cable to the original live wire, slide over the butt connector, crimp, add heat shrink. Connect a piece of black cable to the original negative wire in the same way. To the other end crimp on a ring connector, add heat shrink.
Thread the connector down to the fog light aperture, looking into the aperture you will be able to see two bolts, remove one of them and connect the earth cable, replace the bolt.
For the Drivers side do exactly the same but using the longer length of red cable.

Add the fuse to the inline fuse holder, place the switch in the dash and push! Now, if I've written everything correct and you've followed it your fog lights should be shining away and both the lights on the switch should be on!

I will have a check over everything tomorrow. It's quite late, I've had a couple to drink and I've been watching Underworld Awakening (Kate Beckinsale in black PVC is hard to ignore) so there may possibly be an error or two.

Hope this will help a few people, I know if would have helped me! lol

Andy
 
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