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richy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2010 2:31 pm Reply with quote Back to top

throttle pedal fault

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hi new to this site and hope somebody can help with my problem!!

i have a 1993 audi 80 tdi with a 1Z engine,when driving and you release the throttle to coast next time throttle is applied there is no response as if the throttle cable has snapped ,but its fly by wire!!dip the clutch engine drops to idle with a slight hiccup then away you go again till the next time throttle is released,it doesnt happen on gear changes or when stationary and if you go straight back on to throttle seems ok.it seems as if when coasting injection is stopped ( fuel economy?)but does not restart when going back to drive again unless left to go back to idle. temp makes no difference as it happens hot or cold .
any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Rich hall
 
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richy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:11 am Reply with quote Back to top

richy wrote:
throttle pedal fault

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hi new to this site and hope somebody can help with my problem!!

i have a 1993 audi 80 tdi with a 1Z engine,when driving and you release the throttle to coast next time throttle is applied there is no response as if the throttle cable has snapped ,but its fly by wire!!dip the clutch engine drops to idle with a slight hiccup then away you go again till the next time throttle is released,it doesnt happen on gear changes or when stationary and if you go straight back on to throttle seems ok.it seems as if when coasting injection is stopped ( fuel economy?)but does not restart when going back to drive again unless left to go back to idle. temp makes no difference as it happens hot or cold .
any help/advice would be greatly appreciated

Rich hall

any ideas anybody???
this is starting to annoy me !!!!
 
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quattromnc
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Joined: Apr 05, 2005
Posts: 286
Location: Newton Mearns, Glasgow

PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 8:23 am Reply with quote Back to top

Firstly I think the 1z ecu should be able to give you some fault codes if you can get your hands on a vagcom, this should be your priority. Then Check your intake system, boost hoses, air filter, vacuum pipes and so on.

We can guess all day (unless someone has experience of this) but those codes are what you need.
 
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richy
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

still struggling with this prob,found some one else had similar prob and they replaced throttle actuator unit ( hidden in the pedal box!) found a new one on ebay ,have replaced but problem still there .........

Any other ideas ????????

Rich ( lost )
 
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jamiecoysh
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Joined: Nov 19, 2008
Posts: 901
Location: DEVON

PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 5:30 pm Reply with quote Back to top

why dont you get a VAGCOM from ebay (about £10) and get the fault codes first before carrying on

blanket replacement of parts isnt the answer and it will just cost you money that you could be using getting the problem solved when you find it.

sounds like you have an air leak somewhere probably around the turbo or intercooler ( my friend just had his subaru sorted as it was doing similar as you and that was the main pipe from his front mounted intercooler and perished and split) or maybe a sticky EGR valve but you really should get the codes first
 
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richy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2010 1:24 pm Reply with quote Back to top

thanks for reply vagcom ordered.have seen reference to a blue/white speed sensor wire that is cut and cures some running problems,the question is where is it???
any help anyone ??
 
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motchy87
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 10:54 am Reply with quote Back to top

Morning Rich,

I have the same car and had the same problem last year. I'm afraid it's the diesel pump. The symptoms are identical to the thread below:

http://www.audifans.net/ftopict-12898-.html

The good news is that it can be fixed. It is not necessary to buy a new one (£1000+ = write off), nor send it off to be fixed (£500+).

The tricky part is locating a replacement - time to ring round the scrap yards, certain auction sites. It must be from an Audi 80 tdi years 1992/3 only. The pump design changed in 1994.

These are very good cars, so it is worth fixing. I am often tempted to upgrade but the horror stories of poor reliability of modern cars put me off.

Where are you based?

When you locate a replacement, let me know and we'll go from there. Good luck with the hunt...
 
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richy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 11:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

Motchy,
thanks for your reply,thats the part i was hoping it was not going to be!!have seen 1 on ebay for £100 .what part of the pump fails?
i do aggree with you that they are fine cars this old girl has done 231000 miles ,still on origional exhaust system heater plugs engine never striped had first large item fail a couple of months ago(alternator) the average ford or other manufacturers car would probably be on its fifth!! Rich on the Isle of Man
 
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motchy87
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:08 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Rich,

The faulty part is known as the actuator - the electronic part of the pump, which is the top part of the pump. The mechanical part of the pump is the bottom part, and is fine. Interestingly, the electronics are submerged in the fuel. You do not have to fit a complete pump, the actuator can be taken off, but a replacement must be fitted exactly as before.

The benefit of this is that you do not need to take the pump off - quite a job that involves redoing the cambelt, unless it needs a new one anyway.

I have a few threads for you to read. I will PM you them.

£100 is a fair price I guess.

Mine's a baby compared to yours - only 152k, but 50+mpg even in winter. Two cycles of the glow plugs and it fires up straight away in this cold weather at 6:30am.

MOT next month....
 
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motchy87
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:23 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Forgot to add, before you buy a replacement, confirm the part numbers to me first.

For example, on mine:

Audi no. 028 130 109J
Bosch no. 0 460 404 995
Number on plastic black box (on side of pump) 2 464 463 048

As long as the Audi and Bosch numbers match, there is some interchangeability with the last 3 numbers on the black box - 079, 143 and 048

The easy way to distinguish between a 93 and 94 model is that the return fuel line is on the top of the pump on the 93, where as it comes off the back on a 94.
 
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richy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:39 pm Reply with quote Back to top

many thanks motchy, will contact u with any relevant numbers when i find 1...
thanks again mate,noticed an odd thing today that still works on mine is the heated mirrors,both origional glasses never broken ! ( thank god)
Merry Christmas !!
 
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